"The only way, I believe, to have a better quality of culinary for the future is to first use local ingredients, because I want to be sustainable as much as I can."
Chef J. Luis Gonzalez, fondly called 'Chele' by many, makes his way to our table, and shares that thought with us before presenting what is to become a behemoth of a Spanish feast at his new restaurant ArroZeria, slated to open in just a few days to the public. True enough, in this upcoming paella place in Century City Mall, Makati, local produce is much represented, as the establishment has collaborated with International Rice Research Institute (IRRI), to use local heirloom rice from the Cordillera. "I believe that you can make even Spanish cuisine using local ingredients. So many people, they won't believe–'no, it's not possible.' It's possible," Chef Chele says, "Just spend time doing research, find the quality ingredients." The local rice they use at ArroZeria to create their different kinds of paellas is similar to the Spanish variety arroz bomba. The Spanish chef of VASK is eager to let Manila taste his authentic arroces–over ten rice dishes to choose from–and at the same time to provide good quality food (as is VASK standard), using sustainable local ingredients.
This new 'rice house' (Arroceria translates to 'The House of Rice') honors the legacy of the paella and other delicious authentic Spanish dishes. Here is a look–a 'sneak eat' if you will–at the many kinds of rice dishes and other eats in store for you once the restaurant opens in a few days.
Authentic Spanish paellas take time to prepare. While you wait for your main event to arrive, smaller bites of savory items are available with ArroZeria's tapas selection. Tabla de Pates (P395) arrives in a long wooden board: four kinds of pate, with three kinds of flavored mayonnaise. This particular dish is inspired by food that the chef grew up eating at a restaurant back home, where the cook is French and Moroccan. Chef Chele brings similar flavors of a dish he loved there to Manila via ArroZeria. The Seafood and fish pate comes from a famous traditional recipe, the chicken pate is blended with spices and dotted with pistachio, the cochinillo pate is spreadable and smooth textured, and lastly, a chunky mushroom pate. The chef recommends his favorite pairings: black olive mayonnaise with the fish and seafood, parsley mayonnaise for the chicken pistachio pate, the porcini mushroom mayonnaise for the cochinillo. But feel free to play around with the pairings. If you want to skip the crostinis and save the carb loading for rice, there's the refreshing and light Tatin de Tomate (P399), a confit of local cherry tomatoes and mozzarella balls; underneath is spinach pesto, and topping the tomatoes and cheese is a delicate and crisp parmesan disc, and mixed greens.
The Chef stamps his VASK signature in ArroZeria with the exquisitely executed Carpaccio de Atun (P195), a modern appetizer of yellowfin tuna carpaccio, tomato hearts with seeds, jamon serrano chips, calamansi foam, and a little sprinkling of rock salt. If you have not dined at the chef's first restaurant here in the country, order this as prelude to your paella to serve as a teaser for the gastronomic things that await you in VASK. More savory bites await before you move on to the paellas, highly recommend is the Gambas con Gabardina Negra (P395), a basket of squid ink battered shrimps with a delicious mojo picon (mild pepper sauce) as dip that proves a great match to sangria.
For refreshments, ArroZeria serves signature jars of sangria and other wine concoctions. A single serving of Agua de Valencia (Sparkling Sangria – P350/1, P950/3-4) proves good enough for two light drinkers, and the bigger jar of La Guapa (Rose Sangria – P195/1, P695/3-4), with a spout in the bottom, is a delicate and sweet party-starter. Sparkling, white, rose, and red wines are available by the glass and by the bottle, as well as nine cocktails to choose from, such as the vodka-based La Pera (P300) with cucumber, lemon, and apple schnapps, and El Suavecito (P260), a concoction with flavors of calamansi, ginger, and honey.
In about 30 to 45 minutes, after you have whet your appetite partly with small bites and sips of sangria, the hero–rice–is ready to be revealed. But before that, a little (or rather, huge) interlude, if you are a serious carnivore: you must challenge your appetite with their Angus grass-fed Tomahawk (P575/100g). It is a serious steak, a force to reckon with, that comes with potatoes, mushrooms, mustard, blue cheese, and spinach cream sauce. Round up your steak loving friends to share this one, it's steak done right, as it needs none of the sauces — one juicy bite, and you are in tender, bloody, steak heaven.
Paella at ArroZeria can be served in two consistencies: al dente and thin, or soft and wet. Traditionally, it is consumed the former in Spain, while locally (and as well as in other Asian versions), we partake of paella in a softer and wetter consistency. Servings of paella is priced per person, so your pan will be sized accordingly; it's best to arrive as a big group in ArroZeria so you can try more flavors and versions.
We take the traditional route in enjoying Pato y Setas (Duck and Mushrooms Paella, P375), al dente and thin, every morsel of rice having a bite and bursting with flavor that the rice alone–even if you skip adding the meat–is delicious. Other paellas include De Verduras (Seasonal Vegetables, P275), Valenciana (Chicken, P295), Del Senorito (Boneless Chicken and Seafood, P395), and Abanda (Boneless Fish and Seafood, P395).
Before we attack another paella, we partake on an intermission of risotto, the Foie Gras y Boletus (P550). This creamy rice dish is utterly luscious in every spoonful, the duo of gooseliver and porcini mushroom never failing to deliver deliciousness. I may have already played favorites and called it the best rice meal of the evening, but then a big bowl of Caldoso De Cangrejo (Crab and snowpeas, P275), the soupy paella, arrives.
You ever hear or use the phrase, "kanin pa lang, ulam na?' This is what the caldoso of ArroZeria is, a soupy delicious pot that had pieces of the crab on top, but I only had the rice and rice alone on my spoon, but that was all it took to experience the flavors of the sea. Same phrase can be uttered with the saucy, Meloso variety of paella. The Carrilleras Estofadas (Stewed Beef Cheeks, P450) was such a joy to eat. Topping this wet and creamy paella were tender pieces of beef cheek, cauliflower, and broccoli. This is the part of the night where I had second helpings and guiltless thirds of rice — maybe because I am fonder of the wet kind of paella (but I am first, too, to scrape of the crispy "tutong" off the pan!). It was just absolutely flavorful. My all-time favorite paella variant is the paella negra with a little sprinkling of lemon juice. While ArroZeria does not have this, they do have their Fideua, thin noodles in De Costillas (Pork Ribs, P275) and Negra (Squid Ink and Octopus, P275) flavors. Vermicelli-like noodles replace rice in this dish, and is also as flavor-loaded as the paellas.
The Spanish feast–and rice items–do not end there. Not yet. There's dessert, remember? And while your appetite might be telling you you are all rice'd out (as was my case), you will find yourself eating more, with ArroZeria's Arroz Con Leche (P195), a big bowl of caramelized rice pudding. It's top torched layer cracks like a creme brulee, and its flavors, laced with subtle spices, very similar to horchata. There's also a light, springy cake that reminds me of a pina colada–Torrija de Coco Caramelizada (Caramelized Coconut Brioche with Pineapple Sorbet, P195) is for the sweet tooth that craves for summery flavors in a dessert. A fun interactive dessert reminiscent of childhood taho is their Cuajada Al Momento (P250). Instant goat milk curd is poured into a clear glass, and after waiting for a moment–three minutes to be precise, the dessert comes with a sand timer–you are to top it with honey, apple compote, and toasted walnuts, before you dig in.
When ArroZeria says it is a place where rice is the hero, be prepared to consume more of it than you originally intended. That's because Chef Chele and his team are your new rice rockstars dishing out chart-topping hits from paellas and risotto, down to a surprisingly good rice dessert. It's a gut-busting rice feast, every spoonful muy delicioso and worthy of your attention.
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ArroZeria will open its doors to the public starting February 1, 2015. They will be open from 11am to 1am. ArroZeria is located at the 4th level of Century City Mall, across the Hole In The Wall entrance next to the escalators. Call +63920 974 4742 for inquiries and reservations. Like ArroZeriain Facebook (/ArroZeriaMNL), and follow on Instagram and Twitter (@ArroZeriaMNL).
