Now boasting of a streamlined menu that focuses on Filipino comfort food interpreted by its new Chef Jonvic Mangibin, Lōla Café + Bar is shaping up to be that northern darling for all your Pinoy food cravings that only this restaurant can satisfy.
The restaurant recently turned three, and to celebrate its third year of operations, has revamped its food concept. It was formerly a place to have many kinds of cuisine (from Filipino to Italian, American to some fusion), and now with Chef Jonvic at its helm, they put the spotlight on Filipino food and placing their own signature take on it — dishes both familiar and modern, and with the different components combined, offering something to diners that quite distinct to make them stand out among the many Filipino restaurants in the metro. "It's going to be the fourth month here joining the Lola group, " the chef shares. Mangibin spent most of his career in Australia, working there for eight years, and upon returning to the Philippines, linked up with his mentor Chef Rob Pengson and worked at Olive Tree Kitchen and Bar. The chef observes that in the north area, Filipino cuisine is king for the families and residents, and for Lōla, they address this craving by making their own 'Signature Filipino' menu items. The food revamp by the new chef, with about 90% of the menu comprising of new dishes, has so far been met with many positive feedback by old customers.
A common belief about our eating preferences is that Filipinos despise eating vegetables (and absolutely love our sweets — heck, even in spaghetti), and most of the time veggies are an afterthought or an add-on to meatier stars on the plate. So when Chef Jonvic introduces a Cauliflower Fritos (P230) on the menu, do yourself a favor and prioritize some greens for appetizers because he's found a way for you to eat more vegetables. Battered cauliflower fills up a bowl, and is glazed with sweet soy and lime and finished with sesame seeds. It's as enjoyable as eating chicken poppers (maybe even more — no meat, less guilt!) and a simple vegetable transforms into a flavor packed, crunchy appetizer. But if you want to begin strong at Lōla and go bolder, then their Bone Marrow Sisig (P275) will never, ever fail. How do you present a favorite bar chow of grilled pork jowl even sexier? Lay it on top of roasted bone marrow, then add garlic crumble. Making this heart-stopping treat even more unique is the kamias jam you can slather on the cracker; make sure you have enough marrow, sisig, and jam in every bite for an explosion of flavors.
If you want a delicious upgrade to noodle favorites, then must not miss are Bacon Belly Batchoy (P320) and Black Palabok (P295). "It's for the love of pork," the chef shares about the meaty inclusion in the noodle soup of Iloilo. The slabs of braised bacon, which is cured in-house, belongs beautifully with ox tripe and soft boiled egg swimming on sweet garlic broth — its heartiness similar to Japanese ramen, with flavors distinctly our own. Palabok has always been a personal favorite noodle dish, and to see it served with squid ink bisque rather than the usual orange-tinged sauce with anatto immediately calls my attention. The Black Palabok still has all those familiar components, just cooked perfectly and every topping of prawn, squid, smoked fish floss a delight to mix in the dark sauce. With a squeeze of calamansi, each forkful becomes a perfect balance of flavors.
The true test of excelling a Filipino dish would be its relationship with rice. Good news: this restaurant's marriage of ulam (main viand) with our favorite morsels of fluffy white carbohydrates will make your belly satisfied. If Singaporeans have their Hainanese chicken rice, here in the restaurant we are served the excellent ¼ Chicken Confit & Tinola Rice (P280) — a local chicken rice bowl that is worth trying and emptying till clean. Flavors of tinola stand out as they cook the broth from scratch, and this is where they cook the rice. The ginger chicken pairs well with the lemongrass rice pilaf, and to add texture and vegetable components are cubes of green papaya, scallion relish, and local greens (a mix of malunggay, alugbati, and mustard leaves) fried in garlic oil.
Another quick eat with everything you need in a bowl is their delicious Miso Salmon & Sinigang Rice (P320) — each spoonful introducing to your palate both the familiar and novel, with waves of that tart sinigang flavor I endlessly enjoy (now in the form of an addicting tamarind and tomato rice). The pan seared salmon with miso glaze also comes with the garlic oil fried local greens which adds some hint of spice and light crispness.
Main courses to share and to pair with extra orders of rice include upgrades and signature takes on Filipino entrees, such as Wagyu Kare-Kare (P390), Roasted Belly 'Tocino' (P490), and Kimchi Kaldereta (P390). If you love gata (coconut milk) as much as I do, then you must order the Coconut Boneless Bangus (P430) smothered in coconut and leek sauce and topped with fried local greens and fried garlic — you will find yourself craving for even more rice with every spoonful of the fish, especially when you get the belly portion. The Brisket 'Bistek' Tagalog (P410) is a delicious take on the classic bistek and a crowd pleaser from young to old — the cured brisket is saucy with its soy-calamansi flavors (enough to drizzle on everyone's rice) and combined with fried onions, garlic confit, and Lola relish.
More desserts are heading their way to the new menu of Lola, while some of its old favorites remain — just made a little more delicious, like the Banoffee Pie (P170), a sweet and comforting dessert of banana custard cream on graham crust with peanut butter. For something light and crisp, the restaurant has meringue of Strawberries & Cream (P150), with textures of strawberries and a coconut-tarragon mousse. Also available are Filipino signature desserts of Taho Cheesecake (P180), Maja Blanca Jar (P125), and Tsokolate (P250) with Milo mousse and chocnut crumble.
Chef Jonvic Mangibin mentions that upgrading their menu and reimagining Filipino food has not yet stopped for them — the restaurant will still grow with their food, such as specials, degustations, and more dishes in the future, such as their take on maskara (pig's face) which he is particularly excited about. "It's our version of the crispy pata — instead of pata, we serve it with the half face and you'll really see it on the plate."
Lōla Café + Bar is located at 99 Scout Lozano, Quezon City. Call (0917)817-6045, 501-2620, 219-3254; Like on Facebook (LoLa cafe+bar) and follow on Instagram (@lolacafe).
