Here's something quite different in the metro: a 17th century themed Venetian cafe that serves classic Italian fare with a unique bridge-way view of a grand canal.
Gran Caffè Lavena held its opening day on Valentines Day, a perfect date for a restaurant built on romantic nostalgia and old grand charm of Venice. It is inspired by the original Caffè Lavena in Venice, the quirks and luxuries of centuries past, to suit the establishment's location — it is on the Rialto Bridge of Megaworld's Venice Grand Canal, a replica of the Grand Canal in Venice, Italy.
The Venice Grand Canal at McKinley Hill already pulls in crowds even if most of the attractions are yet to open, but the fascination for the man-made river lined with 'old' Venetian style buildings is strong and always has passers-by stopping for photographs. Gran Caffè Lavena draws in a crowd that takes pleasure on lingering dining — guests having an intimate dinner date, a long afternoon over coffee and dessert, or a large gathering of family and friends who want to indulge in an ambiance in the metro unlike any other (how many restaurants are on the bridge overlooking a replica of the grand canal anyway?)
Italian owner Marcoroberto Ascione decorates his Italian restaurant with much of that old world Venice — plush velvet chairs, elaborate chandeliers, golden figurines, marbled tiles, and Murano glass, which are also for sale if the pieces interest customers. The servers also wear costumes to complete the overall experience. Giving the kitchen its own authentic Italian flair is Italian Chef Davide Cortina. "We have different regions of Italy covered in our food," says the chef, "like the lasagna, which is originally how we do it in Sicily. When the Italian people come here and eat it, they say it's very nice." Most of the ingredients used also hail from Italy, according to Chef Davide.
You may begin your Venetian experience in the restaurant with an antipasti of Prelibatezze di Formaggi Italiani Assortiti (P1,400). Good for sharing, this appetizer of assorted Italian cheese–a mix of parmigiano, taleggio, gorgonzola, and asiago–comes with carciofini (artichoke), olives, and peppers in olive oil, assorted Italian cold cuts, and toast.
Mushroom lovers will enjoy the restaurant's Zuppa di Funghi (P390), a bowl of homey and earthy flavors, with unadulterated flavors and aroma of wild mushroom (porcini) and other mushrooms sauteed with onion and garlic, transformed into a velvety soup.
For lighter fare, there is the Insalata Dogaressa (P420), its name an homage to the wife of the Doge of Venice. The salad is an interesting mix of pancetta and anchovies, their distinct saltiness combined with the greens, olives, and artichokes making the dish vibrant.
The Italian restaurant carries a pasta selection on their menu, and Chef Davide recommends their version of the quattro formaggi (four cheese) — the Penne Four Formaggi (P520) — which uses four Italian cheeses, namely asiago, taleggio, gorgonzola, and parmesan. Their carbonara, however, recognizes the Filipino palate that is fond of the creamier version. "I don't make it like they do it in Rome, normally we don't use cream, just the egg… Maybe I will do it in the future. Once we do it, I think they're going to love it." Perhaps 'when in Rome' applies here and if you do order their Spaghetti Carbonara (P480), you'll enjoy a perfectly al dente pasta dish that's coated (not drowning) in just enough cream, dotted with bits of bacon.
The risottos at Gran Caffe' Lavena are the highlight of our meal — each plate of the Italian rice dish was delicious, every morsel brimming with flavor. If you greatly enjoyed their mushroom soup, the Risotto Al Funghi Porcini (P620) follows its flavorful footsteps, its mix of mushrooms as topping and also as components that the chef used to make a cream. If you are a fan of truffle, don't miss out on their Risotto Tartfufo e Asparagu con Prosciutto Crudo (P650) which combines truffle and asparagus with parma ham. They use Italian short-grain rice here (Arborio), the type that is used for risotto.
Joining the chef in conceptualizing the dolci (desserts) of Gran Caffe Lavena is his wife, and their lineup of cakes impresses. They are not strictly Italian with the desserts, but use techniques and ingredients for them. Their menu lists 13 different cakes and sweets, and Chef Davide mentions they plan to add more items like croissants and Danish pastry. "Actually, all our desserts are not that sweet, just sweet with the natural ingredients," says the chef, "I like the ingredients to come out all together, not to overtop everything with sweetness of sugar. And everything is all from scratch, no preservatives, all fresh."
Included in their desserts are their version of French cake St. Honoré (P350) topped with cream puffs dipped in caramelized sugar, and the Italian Torta Caprese (P320), a traditional chocolate-almond torte. Their best-selling Tres Leches (P320) is well balanced and soaks just enough of the different milks to create a sweet and moist body, and their Chocolate Cake (P320) is a classic decadent cake that balances the dark chocolate and natural sweetness of chocolate with the smear of tart raspberry sauce.
Visit Gran Caffè Lavena at the Rialto Bridge of Venice Grand Canal in McKinley Hill, Taguig. Like on Facebook (/GranCafeLavena) and follow on Instagram (@GranCaffeLavena).
