On April 27, some 488 years ago, Mactan may have looked like what would make a foreigner's legs turn into jell-o. That is, if Antonio Pigafetta's account of the Battle of Mactan holds accurate. As one of those who remained in the boat and survived the struggle, he related how more than a thousand natives (the number is historically doubted) gamely and savagely welcomed forty-nine of Magellan's men who were in the shores of Mactan to kill their resentful datu Lapu-Lapu. The end of this tale, as we all Filipinos have learned in our elementary Kasaysayan class, is Magellan's fatal defeat and Lapu-Lapu's acquiring of the title "First Filipino Hero."



Four centuries and several decades after, this spot in Mactan still stands. But Punta Engaño, as how it is called now, has nothing reminiscent of the supposed first struggle against the invaders except for the several shrines put up in memoriam. This area at the eastern tip of the island is now home to both residential and commercial communities. The flourish of businesses in this part of Mactan is likely because of it's proximity to the international airport. A travel time of less than 30 minutes from the airport is all it takes for you to reach several pasalubong shops in the plaza adjacent to the Mactan Shrine. Ironically, the place that have once been dreaded by shamed conquistadors, had been converted to a tourist spot where locals get excited at the sight of taxi cabs deploying curious travellers.

The moment our group stepped on their land, grown men and kids alike native to this part of Mactan flocked towards us just like how eager Sampaguita vendors swarm to those who have just heard mass in the churches. They, in chorus, extended their questions on what you can buy there and suggestions on where to eat. "Gitara maam, sir?" "SuTuKil?" "Pasalubong bossing?" Apparently, the battle at present is no longer between Lapu-Lapu and the foreigners, but between Lapu-Lapu and his fellow businessmen.

Side by side, they sell handmade guitars, Cebu-labeled trinkets, shirts, shelled crafts, abaca hats, preserved starfishes, and basically everything you would expect of souvenir shops. The larger and stricter competition in the area however is between the five SuTuKil restaurants, sought after and talked about by those who are foreign to Cebu.

SuTuKil is not a misspelling of the term shoot to kill, however appropriate it may seem considering the violent history of Mactan. SuTuKil merely shortens Sugba-Tula-Kilaw, three cooking styles which the Mactan folks consider their specialty.



Fredz Sutukil is the fourth eatery we saw from the entrance of the Mactan Shrine Fish Market. Owned by (You guessed right!) Fred, this paluto style resto is one of the forerunners of the SuTuKils. Of course we didn't know that at first and that's not the reason why we picked Fredz. Ivan, the better salesman among those who welcomed us, convinced us to dine in his relative's SuTuKil.

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Fredz SuTuKil
The freshest of the seafood offerings in Cebu can be found in the SuTuKil restaurants in Punta Engano, Mactan. Fred, owner of the 18 years old Fredz Sutukil, prides himself of the cheap rates of his dampa style eatery.

SuTuKils are pretty much like the dampa style restos here in the Metro. One difference though is that SuTuKils have their own market stalls in front of their canteen unlike the dampas which have a common market.



In front of Fredz lay a smorgasbord of sea creatures both alive and dead. As far as I can recall, this is the most variated selection I've seen. Fishes exotic to me radiated in vibrant colors: bright red, brown, red and yellow, green and yellow, pink, orange, and silver-- despite absence of life. Most are also interestingly striped, spotted, and patched. The cramped aquariums to the fishes' side however housed dull colored gray crabs which on the contrary were all alive and kicking. Two humongous lobsters, several trays of gray prawns and shrimps, buckets of sea weeds, and pails of mollusks, can also be found.

The size, too, of the place can be considered another difference from the dampas in Manila. SuTuKils, at least Fredz, are like oversized karinderyas. Fredz SuTuKil can accommodate a fiesta with its 6 long rows of plastic mantel covered monoblock tables that are always kept neatly aligned.



That largeness, of course, still excludes the also spacious open-kitchen area they have prior to the dining hall. The white-tiled kitchen with a couple of missing squares has invisible divisions marking the work stations of the cooks-- some of them, shirtless. One cook was mincing garlic. One was busy with a fiery wok. The other one was mixing whatever was inside of the black casserole. The last one was scrubbing crabs. Altogether, they were curious why I was watching them while I took notes.

Aside from our group, there was only one table occupied. One of my fellow diner that time happens to be one pretty faces in the local showbiz. I asked Ivan if the SuTuKils are usually this empty. He vehemently shook his head as he said that the place is always full during weekends. He proudly added when he eyed the artista on the farther table, that celebrities even more famous than her come in frequently.



My companion, the more experienced in haggling and markets, was the one who picked and ordered for our early lunch that day. What resulted in her budgeting and haggling with Fred is a feast for five that would make anyone say, "Wow! Not bad!"

The local Fish Molmol (at P200 per kilo*) was picked because we were advised that its tender white flesh is good for all three of sugba, tula, and kilawin styles. Since none of us is a fan of kilawin, she made them grill the first half of the kilo, saving what's left of it for tula.

She also got us a kilo of Squid, which like the fish was halved to produce Calamares and Zizzling Squid (the way it is spelled in their menu).

And because 2 kilos seemingly are not enough to her judgement, we got 1/2 kilo of Baked Scallops (P180 per kilo*), 1 kilo of Chili Crab (P280 per kilo*), and 1/2 of Garlic Prawns (P380 per kilo*).



They literally just cook the moment you're done choosing, expect to wait a while. Dampa eaters may already be aware how long eating this way takes. But most likely, they are also aware why fresh seafood dishes are worth the wait.

The Molmol fish- tula style, came in first. I expected a tweaked version of nilaga and was surprised when the first sip revealed that it was sinigang style, only, it was on the spicier spectrum. They were right about the flesh's appropriateness for tula. The white meat of the fish remained firm, compact, yet tender, despite cooking in broth. It's even firmer than bangus flesh.



The Garlic Prawns came in next, immediately wafting off a buttery yet definitely garlicky aroma the moment it landed on our table. Slices of red onions, leeks, and tomatoes lay bountiful atop, concealing the heap of medium-sized prawns underneath.



I was once advised that the measure of this crustacean's freshness is whether or not the transparent shell clings to it's meat. Add to that, the tail part should come off clean once it's shell is pulled. If those are the only qualifications, Fredz Sutukil's prawns would pass with high marks. No wonder on that part though because according to Ivan, they get their seafood in the nearby fishing grounds.

Not only would it pass the freshness test, it would also get an A for it's recipe. The dish, generally saccharine and slightly salty, is infused with what I deem proper amount of garlic flavor: a lot.

Next came the Sinugbang MolMol which would send those paranoid of carcinogens running. One side was a obviously over-grilled with most of the skin almost char black. Nevertheless, we scraped them off and proceeded consuming the fish.



The inihaw was good, with its flesh evenly cooked. It wasn't remarkable though as I still find inihaw na bangus tastier.

The squid however is a different story. Stale squid is easier to detect and determine than old prawns. They taste worse, too, and not to mention more frustrating, thanks to the arduous chewing they require. And because of these, nothing beats the satisfaction of chancing upon a good, fresh one. And here at Fredz's you're sure to get some. Be sure to order their Calamares, which aside from being very crunchy, is not gummy at all. The same goes for the Zizzling Squid, which had been a good aquaintance of our palates.





The sight of the next dish we had might sadden The Little Mermaid. Fredz SuTuKil got little Ariel's playthings, buttered and baked them. Seven beautiful ridged shells were lain artistically on the plate, with each of their consumable parts basted in butter.



Never mind if their soft bodies altogether would barely fill a cupped hand. Buttered scallops are always a treat. Just make sure you have something else to fill you, or else, you'll end up bitin.

Last but not the least was the Chili Crab. I appreciate how the cooks here take time decorating their dishes. I'd give them an A for styling the crabs gregariously-- it gives it character. The look-at-me dish has around 4 halved alimasags arranged so as their legs hang around the platter, thus making the dish look like a giant crab as a whole.



I have previously professed my love for crabs so no wonder I enjoyed this dish. The only think I noted though is the inappropriate name for the dish. It just wasn't that zesty to deserve a Chili affixed to it's name. Nevertheless, it was flavorful for a steamed crab.

All in all, our bill summed to P1580 but was further slashed to P1,400 when we asked for a discount. Take note, there were five of us and the bill included drinks already. There were even enough left overs for us to bag.

Aside from the great feast we've had, the warmth of accommodation and service we received from Fred and his fellow Cebuanos was exceptional, a far cry from how their ancestors received those alien to them several centuries ago.

Blessed with bountiful sea creatures and splendid coasts, no wonder travellers foreign and local alike have always found Mactan irresistible. Lucky for us, warm smiles and good food are what they welcome us with nowadays in place of spears and arrows.

*prices quoted may vary