Ricky Morelos is not a professional chef. But that doesn’t make his way with food any less impressive. He comes from the family that turned Dulcelin, a former home-based business, into a household name. Now they have their very own restaurant, Dulcelin Gourmet, where the food is hands down superb. And part of reason behind the amazing food is Ricky. Dulcelin is famous for desserts, so it was a pleasant surprise to learn that Ricky is quite the meat expert. I sat down with him and learned more.
Ricky Morelos
Question: You’re known as a master of meat. I mean, you have quite a reputation for it. How did that start?
Ricky Morelos: I studied abroad, in Texas. University of Texas. So that is a meat place, Texas. In fact the number one barbecue joint now is there, Franklin Barbecue. You have to make pila for several hours just to get in. And yung style nila dun, siguro by 1 o’clock there’s no more food. If you’re in line and you’re the 100th customer, yung 101st uwi na kayo.
I think I saw that on 'Man vs. Food.'
Yeah or kay Bourdain. And yung style nila dun is simple. Simple party food. Salt and pepper, ganun lang. There are several types of barbecue there. Anyway, when I was in school I was working part time sa Athletics department. In the Athletics department of the school, we have one of the biggest athletic departments around the U.S. Their budget is para ng budget ng malaking kompanya. Anyway, we get boosters who treat us to picnics. So we go to their–you know in Texas–sa ranch. So when we get there may food spread, they have huge smokers parang trailer types na may smoked barbecue, beef maybe, some pork, and chicken. So I got interested in smoking. Tapos ako binabalikan ko after they strip the beef–the meat out of the carcass of the beef–binabalikan ko yung bone marrow. Sabi nung ranch hand dun, “Boy, what are you doin'?” I said, “I’ll cut this open and let’s eat it.” And ranch hand says, “That’s for my dog!” Sabi ko, taste it first. And he said, “Hmmm…good. Bone marrow good! But you’re gonna die.” So I said I’m still young so that’s okay. [laughs]
At least you’re gonna die happy!
Exactly, yeah. So ayun kinakain ko yung bone marrow nila. But yeah I got interested in that. Tapos when I was there, my tita who was staying with me there entertained a lot, so I got interested in food. So from there when I got back I bought a smoker, small lang. Now I have a bigger smoker. So I do experiment with smoking. I’m a carnivore! So that’s when I got into meats, the science of meats.
I heard that one of your specialties is your corned beef, right?
Ah. Well, I experiment with different cuts of beef. What I do sell, and it’s very popular but it’s very expensive now, is the tri-tip. Tri-tip is part of the sirloin area of the cow but I’ve tried several from choice, prime, Wagyu, Australian Wagyu… but I’ve settled on…this American Wagyu and it’s a cross between Wagyu and Angus. I’m the only one using it. It’s more expensive but there’s a certain flavor.
Dulcelin Gourmet's Wagyu Tri-Tip and Angus Short Ribs
Have you ever had any cooking disasters? What’s the most memorable one?
Cooking disasters…In the house kasi everything is pre-ordered so I don’t get too many cooking disasters. Except like kunyari they ordered something and the secretary didn’t write it down. Yun ang mga problems ko. Yun lang naman eh. My advantage at home, within 2 kilometers of the house there are several department stores and groceries, so I have no problem with that.
How did you conceptualize your menu here in Dulcelin? How did you decide what to put on the menu?
Well we followed more or less the Dulcelin menu. Cut it down to portion size and then we added some stuff. Basically, stuff that I and my brother like to cook. We watch a lot of shows on cooking and cook books. So I just get ideas on what I like to probably eat and what I like to think that maybe people would like.
What are your favorite shows?
I just watch the Food Network. Whatever show is there. I like Bourdain kasi he’s different. I do read a lot of cook books of Nathan Myhrvold, he’s the Microsoft guy that quit Microsoft just to do a cook book and all that. I have his cook books. The most expensive cookbooks ever! Kasi there’s a lot of molecular [gastronomy] there. I’m not naman molecular. He does the science of cooking. He’s too complicated. Ako kasi simple lang. I’ve been doing sous vide for mga six years na yata. I read about it a long time ago and then I bought one from Ebay in the States. I started experimenting. I don’t think anyone had a sous vide machine here at that time and then yun. Sabi ko, "Okay 'to ah!" It’s basically putting tough cuts of meat in an immersion circulator, and making it soft without losing too much texture.
How long did it take you to master the technique?
A few months.
What’s your favorite part about cooking sous vide? Why do you like it so much?
You get the right tenderness and less shrinkage as opposed to, say, braising or boiling, where you lose a lot of flavor of the meat. So in sous vide, you get perfect temperature all the time.
What’s your favorite item on your menu?
Besides the beef, this red rice. I have a dish at home called the red rice salad. It’s a rice-based dish with spiced mayo with vegetables, shrimp, and tuna.
Red Rice Shiso Duo
Dulcelin started as a home business because your mom liked to cook. How about you, where did your love for food start?
I guess when I left to study and I was in the States. Siyempre, eating a lot of food there. Tex-Mex food. Carnitas, yung mga staple dun, barbecue.
I heard that every barbecue state in the U.S prepares their barbecue differently. Which state do you think does it best?
Texas. [laughs] It’s a beef thing. The other states kasi pork.
So you cook a lot at home?
Cook a lot of the things I like to eat.
Let’s say you had to cook a nice meal in 30 minutes, what would you cook?
I like uni pasta. 30 minutes, I can do that.
Can you tell us a little bit more about your earliest food memory?
Apparently, according to my mom, she put a timer on the table because I didn’t want to eat my food. I went to Ateneo, so I rode the school bus. The school bus is about to arrive and I didn’t eat my food, so she put a timer. She’d always tell me that. “You were thin before so I put a timer. Now I put a timer so that in five minutes you get the hell away from the table.” [laughs]
What’s your favorite cuisine to eat and to cook?
I like smoking [the food], but eating, I like either Thai food or Japanese food. Japanese food, because of the fresh fish. I like raw stuff. Thai food, I like the spice.
If there is one food that you can never give up eating, what is it?
Food or junk food? [laughs] I love potato chips! Jalapeño potato chips.
What food will you never eat? Is there food that you’re not particularly fond of?
I eat everything.
Least favorite food?
Least favorite…Wala masyado eh.
Ano na lang, if it’s your last day on earth or if you’re about to be sent to death row or something, what’s your last meal?
Of course I’ll probably eat a steak! Steak with foie gras.
What’s your favorite thing about having a restaurant?
When I opened the first Saturday, a customer came up to me and said “I love your food!” Sabi ko "Thank you, have you tried Dulcelin before?" "No, it’s the first time." So she shook my hand and then left.
Music to your ears?
Yeah!
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During our visit Ricky kept getting up to either prepare or supervise the preparation of our food. A lot of the recipes on the menu are of his own creation, or a twist of his favorite recipes. His passion for food is evident in the way he talks about it. His very hands-on approach and his determination to use only the best ingredients really shine through on the dishes that they serve.
From conceptualization to execution, Ricky Morelos has managed to shape Dulcelin Gourmet into what promises to be another smashing success.
